Maltby Street Market

What a find! Thanks to our new neighbors Dimitri and Marissa for letting us know about this hidden gem of a market that's right on our doorstep! 

The Maltby Street Market is much more accessible than Borough Market because it's so much smaller, and fewer people know about it. It is only open from 9 am - 2 pm on Saturdays. The market is really a series of shops in the railway arches, and seems to be centered around The Monmouth Coffee Shop. Now, you can't get a cup of coffee at The Monmouth Coffee Shop in Borough Market on a Saturday for love or money. This is because every tourist in London is told they must have a cup of the famous coffee, and the queue wraps around corner. However, you can easily walk in and get a cup of coffee at the Maltby Market in what is actually Monmouth's warehouse.

Jam doughnuts from St. John's Bakery

The market has everything you could need or want, but on a smaller scale than Borough Market. You don't feel like you're missing out on anything though. Quite the contrary -- you can't help but feel like a bit of a hipster at being part of what seems like a secret foodie community. 

Tozino

We filled our shopping bag with lots of tasty treats.  Bread from St. John's Bakery, cured ham from a Spanish meat stall called Tozino, and most spectacularly, Norwegian smoked salmon from Hansen & Lydersen that melts in your mouth. 

Hansen & Lydersen

We need to go back to try the beer from The Kernel Brewery http://thekernelbrewery.com/, cheese from Mons Cheesemongers, and the pastrami from Monty's Deli ("Jewish Soul Food"). 

There are also unusual shops around the area -- art deco furniture shops, old radiators (?), even a Porsche dealer ... the list goes on and on.

Potentially the most exciting discovery of the day, however, is a diner called "Beas Diner" that serves American-style brunch (buttermilk pancakes, French toast, bagels and cream cheese). It's hard to say what we like most about the look of this place...maybe it's unprentious air -- just bare bones furniture in the middle of a very accessible, perhaps cavernous, space. Perhaps the 50's music nicely drowned out by laughter and chatter from the happy customers. Definitely the waitresses who seem to have gotten the memo on American-standard table service. 

Blueberry Pancakes at Bea's Diner

Next weekend we're going to go for a test run of the blueberry pancakes so watch this space. If this place is half as good as we think it's going to be then we will be bringing all of our friends there for a new Saturday morning tradition.

Bea's of Bloomsbury

Details:

9 am - 2pm every Saturday

72 Druid Street SE1 2DU

Nearest Tube: Bermondsey Street (accessible for some wheelchairs)

Tate Modern

The Tate Modern is accessible, and it's free.  Right of the bat, it's a place we were inclined to love. It should come as no surprise that an art gallery housed in an old power station (Bankside Power Station) makes for hugely accessible space. You could have a wheelchair convention in the Tate Modern, and still have room to spare.

We realize that most people go to the Tate Modern for the art, not the accessibility. Fair dues. For us, modern and contemporary art has always been a bit over the top. We try to like it, but secretly don't really "get" it. That's why it was a great relief to find that the Tate Modern has plenty of different traditional genres (like photography, and selections from impressionists) not just flashing lightbulbs and blocks of concrete.

Ramp in Members' Room leading to South patio.

You could definitely spend hours (if not the whole day) wandering around the cavernous space and looking arty (I wore a beret). However, although there is plenty of space, the place is teeming with people which can get a bit much, particularly when waiting for lifts which usually seem filled with athletic 18 year olds having not so much as a limp. 

If you need a break, and have access to the Members' Room, it's well worth a visit. The bright and open room has built in ramps that lead to a lovely outdoor patio with fantastic views of the City, particularly St. Paul's. You can have a slice of quiche and a nice crisp white wine, and just bask in the smugness that comes from knowing you did something "cultural" (often we find of equal proportion to the self-loathing one has from watching reality t.v. shows).  Just keep tabs on your berets...

View of St. Paul's Cathedral from the Members' Room

Hay's Galleria

Hay's Galleria is a great spot for wheelchair users.  It's difficult to describe what Hay's Galleria is exactly.  The atrium reminds us of a large, old fashioned train station but it houses a mixture of of corporate offices, restaurants, shops, and a pub.  Evidently, the building was used as a wharf during the early 1900s, primarily in the tea trade.  The wharf was damaged during the Southwark Fire, and also was bombed during the Second World War.  Surprising, the primary focal point of Hay's, the impressive glass ceiling, was not built until the 1980s are part of an urban regeneration scheme.

Hay's Galleria (facing South)

It's a trick of the mind that a glass ceiling can make a space feel larger than the outdoors, but to us that's  the "wow" factor for this building.  No matter how many people are around, there always seems to be plenty of wheeling space and one never feels claustrophobic, whether due to the sheer height of the roof, the light streaming in from above or the constant fresh air from the north and sought open entrances.

There are a few good eating options here.  We always enjoyed Cafe Rouge pre-wheelchair days, but were a bit leery of going back since so many of this chain's interiors, though cozy, are very cramped.  The Cafe Rouge at Hay's, however, is very accessible since the "outdoor" seating is in the atrium itself with oodles of space. http://www.caferouge.co.uk/french-restaurant/hays-galleria

Cafe Rouge: Note the accessible 

"outdoor" seating

If you take the wide, side ramp up to the Thames Walk side of the Galleria, there is also a nice restaurant called "Cote."  I was disappointed to see a number of steps down into the dining area, but when I spoke with a manager I learned that there is an accessible back entrance.  The manager seemed genuinely interested in telling me about the accessible entrance, and even offered to personally show the entrance to me despite being in the midst of a busy Sunday lunch service.  I didn't take him up on the offer, but plan to go back for a trial lunch not least because I'd like to support a business that's so welcoming. Top marks for effort. http://www.cote-restaurants.co.uk/Cote_LondonBridge.html

Ramp to North entrance, & 

Horniman's at Hay's pub on right.

There is also a pub called "The Horniman at Hays" that I quite wrongly (and embarrassingly) thought was named for something entirely other than tea (Frederick Horniman, an English tea trader).  We haven't been in this pub yet since the very few accessible tables (on the upper level) are always taken.  It's a shame, since the glistening chandeliers and rich wood bar are enticing.  The outdoor seating always seems similarly packed, but one can hardly blame the punters since the panoramic view of the City, as well as the HMS Belfast (battleship) almost at your fingertips, are big draws.
http://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/thehornimanathayslondonbridge/

HMS Belfast (facing Tower Bridge)

You can easily wheel directly East to Tower Bridge on the very accessible Thames Walk which, during the summer, is also excellent for people watching.

Details:  

Address:  

Tel: 

Web:

Transportation: London Bridge tube station* and London Bridge overground.

*Please note that although London Bridge is designated as a wheelchair accessible station, in our experience some power chair users may not be able to use the tube (gap between platform and tube).

Tower Bridge Exhibition - Engine Rooms

Those Victorians. Who can rival their ingenuity and industriousness?  If you're interested in learning how Tower Bridge (the pretty one that most tourists wrongly call "London Bridge") was originally operated then a visit to the engine room chambers will provide you with more information about coal and hydraulics than you thought possible.

Most people come here after a visit to the Tower of London (other side of Bridge) or on their way to the Thames Walk from Shad Thames.  The entrance to the Exhibition is on the south side of the river, directly under the Bridge.  The entrance is completely accessible, and as you enter the Exhibition there is a disabled toilet directly to your right!

We wouldn't recommend that you go out of your way for this Exhibition, but it is certainly a pleasant way to spend a half hour or so if you have the time and you are nearby.  And at just over 3 pounds a ticket, this won't break the bank.  A good choice for young children and mechanically-minded adults (both groups were mesmerized by giant gears).

This venue is also available for hire for special events, and I think it would be a cool, accessible option for a party.

Details:

http://www.towerbridge.org.uk/TBE/EN/
+44 (0)20 7403 3761

Transportation: Tower Hill tube is the closest tube, but it is not accessible.  We believe that the buses that run on Tower Bridge Road are all accessible (e.g. 188, 45).  If you come via London Bridge,* you should be able to get to this pub easily via the accessible Thames Walk.

* Please note that although London Bridge is designated as a wheelchair accessible tube station, in our experience some wheelchair users may not be able to use the tube due to the gap between the platform and the tube.

Borough Market

Including Borough Market as a place of interest in a blog devoted to wheelchair accessibility is a tough call.  This market is not easily maneuverable for anyone other than young, lithe students.  But that doesn't stop the rest of us from flooding in every Thursday, Friday and Saturday to this foodie heaven.  Truly, this is the best market we've ever been to and the vibrant atmosphere is intoxicating.  There are stalls upon stalls of the freshest meats, cheeses, and vegetables, with countless other sweet and savory delights in every nook and cranny.  As soon as you turn a corner into the market you are rendered powerless to the vivid bursts of colors, the sumptuous smells and the cacophony of ever present voices.

That said, wheeling in this market requires preparation.  There are simply too many people around to make wheeling in a straight path possible, and people are too engrossed in finding a stall that sells just the perfect cut of lamb to notice that a wheelchair user trying to push through the heaving mass.  Indeed, I have seen many parents near tears as they try to push strollers with crying toddlers through the crowd while still trying to sample olives and figs.  It often ends in their slugging lots of mulled wine and having sneaky cigarettes.

With all that aside, you shouldn't miss this market.  If you can, try to go early on a Thursday, or on a Friday morning at the latest.  Saturday is a disaster, but that said we went today (to try to order our Thanksgiving turkey) and we survived.  In fact, we shared a truly magnificent duck sandwich in a quiet alley, and we found another wheelchair user doing the same.  So put on a game face and go for it!

P.S. With my expat hat on, I have a special note to the Americans.  If you're at all concerned with trying to fit in, please do not call this "Burr-O" Market.  It's pronounced more accurately like "Burr-Agh" Market.  And you may wish to reconsider telling everyone how we have better and bigger markets in the States.  We don't (and no, CostCo doesn't count).



Details:

http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/

Transportation: See the following link for complete transportation information:  http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/page/3020/Visit-us.  However, please bear in mind that the closest tube station, London Bridge, while designated as a wheelchair accessible station may not be accessible to all wheelchair users due to the gap between the platform and tube.

St. Bride's - Fleet Street

Fleet Street is an amazing part of London -- bustling with lawyers, bankers, newspaper men and everyone in between.  On manic weekdays one is particularly grateful to find a  place of calm and tranquility nestled right in the heart of it all.  One quick turn off Fleet Street into St. Bride's and you can find a lovely courtyard (which The Old Bell also backs on to) to sit and eat your sandwich in quiet solitude.

It is particularly heartening to find a big wide ramp leading to the courtyard, as well as a sign asking visitors not to park their bikes along the ramp as this might block access to the disabled.  How thoughtful!  

I should include a brief history of St. Bride's, but with over 2000 years of history it is quite daunting to do so.  Some highlights include that it was rebuilt seven times. The last time it was rebuilt was after it was bombed in World War II.  The bomb led to the discovery of forgotten underground crypts which are quite a sight to behold.  As far as I can tell, the crypts are inaccessible, but the church is accessible via a side entrance that is very elegantly designed.  

Go for the service, the lunch hour concerts, a tour of the church (tours held on Tuesdays from 3 - 4.30 pm) or just to talk to the kind staff, who also sell used paperbacks for 50 p.  Oh, and don't forget to look up -- evidently the steeple is what the first tiered wedding cakes were modeled after.

Details:

St. Bride's Church

Fleet Street
London
EC4Y 8AU
+44 (0)20 7427 0133

Transportation:

Buses (all accessible): 4, 11, 15, 23, 76

Train: City Thameslink

Tube: St. Pauls, Central Line (not accessible) 

http://www.stbrides.com/