Antico Restaurant & Lounge Bar

My friend recently showed me a NY Times article where Bermondsey Street restaurants, pubs and shops were featured, including the charming Antico. This lovely restaurant opened up kitty corner to the Bermondsey Square Hotel. It only opened up earlier this year -- in fact we remember peering in frosty windows during the New Year holidays to see a large family (presumably the owners) sharing dish after dish of steaming hot Italian food. They looked so happy, and the restaurant was so warm and inviting, we couldn't wait until it officially opened. Goodness knows why it took us half a year to finally go there, but it was worth the wait.

The ground floor -- which is the main restaurant -- is fully accessible. The lounge, however, is downstairs with no lift access that we could see. Wheeling in the restaurant is easy since there are no raised thresholds. We went for Saturday brunch, and there were only a few other tables when we first arrived. The hostess was lovely and gave us the option to sit anywhere we chose. She swiftly removed a chair to make space for the wheelchair with no fuss at all, which is always a good sign.

I had a goats cheese and spinach frittata, and Chazz had the eggs florentine. Both were splendid. I was expecting mine to be made with thinly sliced potatoes, but the error was mine as I must have been thinking of the Spanish-style dish. In any event, the ingredients were fresh and delicious, and the seasoning perfect. Chazz's hollandaise sauce was particularly good. The portion size looked average, but neither of us could finish our plates in the end. 

The service, though extremely friendly, was slow when it came to bringing the bill. A small complaint since we were seated so promptly and our meals came out quickly and the food was hot. By the time we left the restaurant was quite full, a good sign on an early Saturday. 

We loved the atmosphere of the restaurant. It was immaculately clean and bright, and the tables all had  crisp white linens. The exposed brickwork and cool music created a youthful atmosphere. Hats off to the NY Times for highlighting such a great restaurant right on our doorstep. Photos will follow, but as it has not stopped raining for three months we haven't had the right lighting for a while.

The Dickens Inn

The Dickens Inn

The Dickens Inn is an impressive pub located in the idyllic setting of St. Katherine's docks, a marina in the heart of London. It is so lovely to escape the masses of people at the Tower of London, cross Tower Bridge Road, and then wind your way through the twists and turns of St. Katherine's docks to find, over a little foot bridge, this massive timber pub set on three full floors.

The building dates back to at least the 1800s, and may originally have been a tea warehouse. During a 1970s redevelopment project the building's timber frame was restored. Charles Dicken's grandson, Charles Cedric Dickens, formally opened the Inn in 1976.

The beer garden is a little on the small side, but can be accessed by an iron gate which looks easily accessible to wheelchair users. The Tavern Bar is the "pub" portion, and is about the size of three pubs put together. There is a very nice long ramp (also serving a nice looking Indian restaurant called Mala which we'll have to go to next) that provides easy access to the pub entrance on the "ground" floor. 

The ramp going past Mala and leading to the Inn

The interior is dark with rich wood and leather chairs -- quite a juxtaposition to the outside views of gleaming white yachts and sparkling water. The prices are quite dear (10 pounds for two beers) but the atmosphere is worth the high price. The Tavern Bar only has a limited pub grub menu, so we're interested to see if The Grill on the first floor is accessible since it does Sunday lunches and has even better views of the docks. Check this space for further information!

This is definitely a place that we'll come back to time and time again because just being in the docks makes you feel like you're on holiday, and catching sight of the majestic pub makes everyone  smile.

Details:

Marble Quay

St Katharines Way
London
E1W 1UH
Tel 0207 488 2208

Bea's Diner

We've been itching to try Bea's Diner ever since we passed by the other week when visiting Maltby Street Market for the first time. Today we seized our chance and were not disappointed. 

Bea's Diner

This is not a typical restaurant -- it is really just four long picnic tables assembled near an open kitchen and plonked in the middle of a huge cavernous space under the railway arches. That said, it's magical and if you even have a hint of any arty side then you will appreciate the funky vibe of this place which is kind of Iowa meets London (pitchfork on wall, painting of red pickup truck, Tom Petty in the background and yet packed with yummy mummies and flat-capped wearing hipsters). 

For wheelchair users, the space is a godsend. There is absolutely no lip between the pavement and the inside and there are no doors -- you can just wheel right in. The tables, as mentioned, are picnic-style but wheelchair users can just pull up on the ends without a problem. We shared our table with a couple and two children and there was plenty of room. 

Pancakes packed with blueberry goodness

Now...the food. I had the blueberry pancakes, and Chazz had the plain buttermilk. These were the best pancakes that we've had since leaving the States. Thick, fluffy and full of flavour. Being greedy, we also slathered real butter in between each pancake, and topped with Canadian maple syrup. I don't remember eating every last bite, but that's what happened in a pancake haze.  The blueberries were bursting with freshness, and amazingly did not make the pancake soggy which can often happen. They were served piping hot, and quickly. 

I had freshly squeezed orange juice which was very good, and I appreciate the homey touch of drinking it out of a mason jar. Chazz had tea which was good but too fancy for his taste -- he prefers just the ordinary plain tea (as do I). 

Next time we'll try the poached eggs with hollandaise sauce on a "flour station muffin" which looked amazing (we saw two people order it when we were there). Also, I might try the bagel with cream cheese and smoked salmon. Heck, we'll probably just try their whole menu which, being admittedly small, is probably all done very well. 

An amazing place that's already a favorite. I only wish I would have thought of opening a diner like this first.

Details:

Hours: Saturdays only from 9 am "until we run out"

Tel: 020 7242 8330 

www.beasofbloomsbury.com

Red Buses

Besides black cabs, the red buses are our primary source of transportation around London. Although we live in an area where lots of the tube stations on the Jubilee Line are "wheelchair accessible," we have found that they are not actually accessible for us. That's because Chazz's power chair, like many models, have small wheels in the front. Therefore, although the platform and trains are often level in tube stations that are marked as accessible (though not always, I found about a foot incline at Stanmore, which is supposed to be accessible), the gap between the platform and tube make it impossible to get on and off the train because the small wheels will fall in. 

Apparently at some stations you can arrange to have someone bring down a ramp to get on, and then call ahead for assistance at the station where you want to get off, estimating when your train will be due (and having this confirmed by he conductor once you board). But who the heck has the time or patience for that type of planning? After we factored in the risk (ramp not being available to get off and being stuck on train), we decided to give up on this and just use the buses.

On the plus side of London -- all red buses are accessible (except the heritage routes 9 and 15), and you can get virtually anywhere you want in London via a series of buses. And, provided you qualify, you can do this for free if you're disabled with a "Freedom Pass" http://www.londoncouncils.gov.uk/services/freedompass/. More information is about wheelchair travel on buses is available here:  http://www.tfl.gov.uk/gettingaround/transportaccessibility/1171.aspx. This web site says that any wheelchair user can board for free (doesn't mention Freedom Pass). I don't know if this is the case -- we always paid the full fare for both of us until we received the Freedom Pass. Therefore, I don't know if we were being charged for Chazz when we shouldn't have been, or if the information on the TFL website isn't up-to-date. Perhaps someone who is more knowledgeable on the subject can comment here? I think this would be useful information for disabled visitors to London to know...

The red buses lower to the ground, and ramps extend from the back of the bus flush with the pavement. There are few stressful moments re getting on and off red buses that you should be aware of:

1. Rude bus drivers. For the most part, our experiences with bus drivers have been very good, but there have been a couple of bad apples. You can usually sense when this will happen -- you can see the dismay and aggravation in the driver's eyes as he pulls up and sees you sitting in the chair. Even though it's a small delay to let you on, and requires minimum effort, it's still extra work and hassle for him. If you see that the driver is clearly out of sorts by your very existence, then you can either suck it up, or you can wait for the next bus. I know the latter isn't very courageous, but having dealt with a particularly mean bus drivers before (yelling at us in front of other customers when ramp wasn't deploying properly) it depends how much fight you left in you at the end of the day.

2. Ramps don't work. As mentioned above, this is the chief obstacle of a smooth bus journey. We've found that this often results from the bus not being positioned properly by the curb. Based on experiences with vans, we believe this may be due to the sensors -- if you get to close to the curb, there can be too much pressure on the ramp when it reaches the pavement which can short out the electrics. Also, if you're too far away there's not enough contact with the pavement to allow for deployment. In either case, usually this can be fixed by asking the driver to pull up a couple of feet. It usually solves the problem, but in one instance where we asked the bus driver to do this he became irate and completely lost his temper (see 1 above). It worked though.

3. The bus may be crowded/customers will not move. Chairs take up a lot of space, no doubt about it. In rush hour, buses will just pass you by because there's no way you're getting on. Getting on would require about 5 able-bodied people to either squeeze in further (not possible in existing sardine-like conditions), or get off. It's just not going to happen. We travel off-peak whenever possible. 

Even during off-peak hours, some people are funny about space. Generally there are two types of people -- those who, when they see someone who might need an extra hand, can't do enough to help. Type two either don't notice, don't care, or a bit of both. We can't really come down too hard on the latter type. Your bit of standing space is something to be coveted and preserved at all costs. To be asked to move away from your hard-fought safe zone is an imposition - we get it. That's why it's nice to travel in pairs, because the able-bodied person can clear the way and tell everyone that someone in a wheelchair is getting on (even though this is perfectly obvious). This is where being American really comes in handy. You are already presumed to be loud, pushy and generally without any sense of decorum. Use this to your benefit to clear the way. Getting on with just English people is more tricky because it's a series of apologies (sorry, I can't walk, is there perhaps a chance you can use your two legs to shuffle along so I can ride too, if it's not too much trouble?).

4. Prams/Buggies. This is a subset of category 3 above, but deserves it's own mention. There is a sign in the wheelchair area of buses saying that prams can be parked there unless a wheelchair user needs the space. These instructions are rarely observed and, in our experience, the bus drivers will not ask someone with a pram to move. Unless you've been lucky enough to find a nice parent who is willing to share the space with you or move, you're pretty much stuck and have to get off and wait for the next bus. This is an occasion where I think it's perfectly acceptable to scowl and make a comment about "some people," whether under your breath or otherwise. This might be enough to get you on, but in all likelihood you're probably going to have to get the next bus. Just hope it doesn't rain.

We hope the above doesn't sound negative. We're actually incredibly impressed with how accessible the London bus system is, how far you can travel, and the fact that London is progressive enough to allow disabled passengers to ride for free. In Chicago, by comparison, our experience was that disabled people have to undergo a rather humiliating assessment where you have to prove you are disabled by walking/rolling around a block with a transport employee. If that person doesn't think you are disabled enough, you don't get a free ride (Chazz didn't qualify, even being quadriplegic).  London rocks in this sense, and we fully intend to continue using its great bus service. 

Details:

Most buses run 5 am - midnight, and then night service buses are available for many routes.

Central London map: http://www.tfl.gov.uk/assets/downloads/centlond.pdf

Tourist map: http://www.tfl.gov.uk/assets/downloads/central_bus_map.pdf 

Journey Planner: http://journeyplanner.tfl.gov.uk/user/XSLT_TRIP_REQUEST2?language=en

Maltby Street Market

What a find! Thanks to our new neighbors Dimitri and Marissa for letting us know about this hidden gem of a market that's right on our doorstep! 

The Maltby Street Market is much more accessible than Borough Market because it's so much smaller, and fewer people know about it. It is only open from 9 am - 2 pm on Saturdays. The market is really a series of shops in the railway arches, and seems to be centered around The Monmouth Coffee Shop. Now, you can't get a cup of coffee at The Monmouth Coffee Shop in Borough Market on a Saturday for love or money. This is because every tourist in London is told they must have a cup of the famous coffee, and the queue wraps around corner. However, you can easily walk in and get a cup of coffee at the Maltby Market in what is actually Monmouth's warehouse.

Jam doughnuts from St. John's Bakery

The market has everything you could need or want, but on a smaller scale than Borough Market. You don't feel like you're missing out on anything though. Quite the contrary -- you can't help but feel like a bit of a hipster at being part of what seems like a secret foodie community. 

Tozino

We filled our shopping bag with lots of tasty treats.  Bread from St. John's Bakery, cured ham from a Spanish meat stall called Tozino, and most spectacularly, Norwegian smoked salmon from Hansen & Lydersen that melts in your mouth. 

Hansen & Lydersen

We need to go back to try the beer from The Kernel Brewery http://thekernelbrewery.com/, cheese from Mons Cheesemongers, and the pastrami from Monty's Deli ("Jewish Soul Food"). 

There are also unusual shops around the area -- art deco furniture shops, old radiators (?), even a Porsche dealer ... the list goes on and on.

Potentially the most exciting discovery of the day, however, is a diner called "Beas Diner" that serves American-style brunch (buttermilk pancakes, French toast, bagels and cream cheese). It's hard to say what we like most about the look of this place...maybe it's unprentious air -- just bare bones furniture in the middle of a very accessible, perhaps cavernous, space. Perhaps the 50's music nicely drowned out by laughter and chatter from the happy customers. Definitely the waitresses who seem to have gotten the memo on American-standard table service. 

Blueberry Pancakes at Bea's Diner

Next weekend we're going to go for a test run of the blueberry pancakes so watch this space. If this place is half as good as we think it's going to be then we will be bringing all of our friends there for a new Saturday morning tradition.

Bea's of Bloomsbury

Details:

9 am - 2pm every Saturday

72 Druid Street SE1 2DU

Nearest Tube: Bermondsey Street (accessible for some wheelchairs)

Black and Blue

Black and Blue is an upscale restaurant specializing in steaks and fine wines. We visited the location in Borough Market, but other restaurants in this chain are located in equally trendy spots throughout London (e.g. King's Road and Notting Hill).

We had already stuffed ourselves in the food stalls of Borough Market, so regrettably we cannot review the food at Black and Blue yet.* However, we can comment on its accessibility, having spent a lovely afternoon sipping wine there one recent sunny afternoon.

We'd like to shake the hand of the architect who designed this restaurant. He or she managed to meld functionality with design. To enter the restaurant you walk (or roll) up a gentle sloping ramp -- so subtle that most able-bodied people do not even notice this unique and accessible entrance. The front patio is roomy enough for wheelchairs, and has the added bonus of heat lamps which we understand are probably for smokers, but still are heaven for the rest of us on chilly days.

Inside, there are two large communal tables on either side of the large bar. These tables would be ideal for certain power chairs users who need higher tables, and are large enough for a group of 6 or 7 (or more) people. The large dining area is in a separate adjoining room having a stairwell and a LIFT in the middle of the restaurant that go up to bathrooms, including a separate disabled bathroom. It's a bit unusual to see a lift in the middle of a dining floor, but for some reason it works at Black and Blue. The only slightly odd thing about the restaurant itself is that some of the decor seems a bit 1980s.

Perhaps it's the proximity to Vinopolis, but Black and Blue has an outstanding wine list with plenty of excellent choices by the glass. The beer list was notably smaller, although we did see a couple of people having beer with their burgers.  The service was slow bordering on inattentive, but not intentionally so (which always makes it more tolerable). While the prices are reasonable considering the quality and location, be forewarned that a large service charge is included in the bill regardless of how many people are in your party.

Details:

Black & Blue

1-2 Rochester Walk

Borough Market

London SE1 9AF

http://www.blackandbluerestaurants.com

*Since our original post Chazz and I did go back and tried the dinner menu with friends. We had several starters and burgers. The food was almost as good as average bar food in the States and at least twice as expensive. Again, the service was absent-minded bordering on non-existent. The wine was again excellent, however, and quality of beef was good. Because we were with two of our most charming friends we had a wonderful evening notwithstanding the food. We'll definitely only return here for drinks, however.

The Bridge Lounge and Dining Room

The Bridge Lounge is a nice pub on Tooley Street, just opposite City Hall (the building that looks like a giant brussel sprout) and very near Tower Bridge. Both of the entrances to the pub are accessible, and there is plenty of room inside since the bar is in the center of the pub, with tables and chairs all around and a nice, wooden floor. There is also a fireplace which we imagine is quite cosy but have not experienced (despite it being quite cold both times we went), and a separate, disabled bathroom. 

The pub might be too busy to be enjoyable on weekdays since there are a lot of office buildings around the area, and quite a few businessmen about that seem like they need a lunchtime tipple. But weekends are lovely. There are no t.v.s, so don't come here if you expect to watch the footie. But, if a quiet conversation is all you're after, then this place fits the bill. 

On the plus side, the pub is very clean, and the staff are welcoming. However, service can be slow, and the appetizers were not at all special (lukewarm chicken wings and onion rings). Still, we'd be willing to give the food another chance and sample the lunch or dinner menu sometime (perhaps the sausage and mash, which sounded quite good).*

The only downside about The Bridge Lounge is that the upstairs area, with lovely views of Tower Bridge, is not accessible. Still, the accessibility on the ground floor and the bright and pleasant atmosphere makes for a great pub experience. 

Details:
186 Tooley Street
London SE1 2TZ
T: 020 7403 4112
http://www.thebridgelounge.co.uk/contact.html

*Sadly, we went back to try the lunch menu. We won't be eating here again. The sausage and mash, which is advertised as the house speciality, looked and tasted small and sad in the cold, watery mash. My fish finger sandwich was dry and and lukewarm. These are not difficult dishes to get right. It's a shame, because the pub is so cheerful and the table is very accessible. We'd like to like this place, but will keep it as a back-up drinks place only.

Shortwave Cinema

The Shortwave Cinema is a very small, independent cinema located in Bermondsey Square. There's no easy train/tube access, so this is really only a destination for people who live near Bankside. If you do happen to be around the area, though, then this is a nice option if you fancy watching a film. 

The Shortwave is completely accessible. It is located on the ground floor and has indoor and outdoor seating as well as a very large size disabled bathroom. There is a bar that serves some nice beer and a limited, but good, wine selection. The nibbles are mostly heated up in a toaster oven, so don't arrive hungry unless this doesn't bother you. Although service can be slow, the people who work at The Shortwave are all incredibly nice.

The wheelchair seats are at the very ends of the first row in the cinema. There is plenty of room, but because they are on the very ends you do have to crane your neck a bit. However, it's not too bad.

On nice days, it's pleasant to sit outside and watch the world go by. Every Friday there is an antiques fair, and on Saturdays there is a small farmers market.

Keep an eye out for special events hosted at the Shortwave. By chance, we went to the Shortwave when Saint Saviour (Groove Armada lead singer Becky Jones) was warming up for an album party later that night. Great music, great time.

Details:
10 Bermondsey Square
London SE1 3UN
T: 0207 357 6845
www.shortwavefilms.co.uk

BFI IMAX

The BFI IMAX is a 500 seat cinema with a screen more than 20 meters high and 26 meters wide (for us Yanks, that's over 65 feet high and 85 feet wide). It's big. It's where you go when you're not up for the arty films at the nearby BFI and just want to relax with a blockbuster. Getting there is a bit tricky. It seems so easy since it's right in the middle of the roundabout by Waterloo. But to get to the entrance you have to use the subway, and only certain subway entrances have ramps (we do not recommend the lift to the subway on the Waterloo side -- kind of whiffy). Keep in mind that the subway itself may be a bit intimidating to a wheelchair user (or any pedestrian), especially late at night as lots of people seem to sleep rough there. 

The IMAX has a cafe as well as a bar. We were running late and so didn't try either but they appear to be accessible. Wheelchair users enter the theatre from the very top entrance. There is a lift that takes you up to the top floor, but if you don't have use of your arms then someone has to go with you since there are a series of doors that you need to open before arriving at the theatre entrance; there were no staff on hand when we were there to offer assistance.

The seating is a bit confusing. Everyone has a designated seat number on their ticket, but the wheelchair spaces are not numbered. If there are multiple wheelchair users, it is anyone's guess on who actually has dibs on the few spaces. 

One cool thing about watching films in England is that qualified disabled people can apply for a Cinema Exhibitors' Association (CEA) card, which allows an accompanying carer to have a ticket for free. http://www.ceacard.co.uk/. Another cool thing is that you can order popcorn that is sweet and salty. I miss the trough-size tubs of popcorn oozing with butter and salt, but Chazz says the small bags of sweet and salty popcorn are much more sensible. As usual, he's probably right.

Details:

Directions: http://www.bfi.org.uk/whatson/bfi_imax/visitor_information/how_to_get_here

Tickets and Enquiries: 020 7199 6000

Tube/Train: Waterloo

Buses: Loads -- check TFL web site for all routes.

Adapted Vehicle Hire

We rented a Renault Kangoo from Adapted Vehicle Hire ("AVH"). This was the only adapted car hire service that offered small(er) automatic drive vehicles. For an extra fee, AVH delivered the car to our home. The delivery person was very nice and helpful, and took the time to show all of the car's features, including how to pull down the ramp (manual, but lightweight and easy) and secure locks around the chair.  Renting adapted cars is not cheap, and because there are so few vendors you should book well in advance.  

For the Americans -- if you can drive stick, you'll have a much wider choice of rentals. Also, when renting a car in the UK make sure and give it a thorough inspection -- inside and out -- not just a superficial once over. Make sure and note each and every scratch, tear, dent, or hint of the foregoing on your acceptance form. Also, some of the gas caps won't come off by just unscrewing them.  You have to actually insert the car key into the cap and turn (I won't say how long it took me to figure this out...in the rain). I can only guess this is because petrol (gas) is so expensive. 

Details:
Adapted Vehicle Hire, Poplar House, Cowley Business Park, Cowley Road, Uxbridge, UB8 2AD
T: 0845 257 1670
www.adaptedvehiclehire.com

Tate Modern

The Tate Modern is accessible, and it's free.  Right of the bat, it's a place we were inclined to love. It should come as no surprise that an art gallery housed in an old power station (Bankside Power Station) makes for hugely accessible space. You could have a wheelchair convention in the Tate Modern, and still have room to spare.

We realize that most people go to the Tate Modern for the art, not the accessibility. Fair dues. For us, modern and contemporary art has always been a bit over the top. We try to like it, but secretly don't really "get" it. That's why it was a great relief to find that the Tate Modern has plenty of different traditional genres (like photography, and selections from impressionists) not just flashing lightbulbs and blocks of concrete.

Ramp in Members' Room leading to South patio.

You could definitely spend hours (if not the whole day) wandering around the cavernous space and looking arty (I wore a beret). However, although there is plenty of space, the place is teeming with people which can get a bit much, particularly when waiting for lifts which usually seem filled with athletic 18 year olds having not so much as a limp. 

If you need a break, and have access to the Members' Room, it's well worth a visit. The bright and open room has built in ramps that lead to a lovely outdoor patio with fantastic views of the City, particularly St. Paul's. You can have a slice of quiche and a nice crisp white wine, and just bask in the smugness that comes from knowing you did something "cultural" (often we find of equal proportion to the self-loathing one has from watching reality t.v. shows).  Just keep tabs on your berets...

View of St. Paul's Cathedral from the Members' Room

The Bunch of Grapes

This pub has been described as a "proper pub" by those in the know, and you will be pleasantly surprised to open the door and find a traditional, cozy pub with a great selection of beer and ale (including Young's). It has a very small lip of a threshold, but can still easily be accessed by chairs, even power chairs. The bar staff is friendly, and will come and open the second door so that chairs can get in more easily.

Inside, the pub is rather dimly lit, but not in a way that's trying to hide dirt, bad carpet, etc. Instead, the pub is a little dark in an "old world" sense, and the dark wood floor and dark tables add to the atmosphere.  Sadly, the lovely beer garden is not accessible which is a shame since it is open year round and has lots of nice touches (e.g. cushions and blankets on benches, etc.).

This is our number one meeting place near Borough Market since it is conveniently located near the London Bridge tube station and across the street from the Market.

Details:

2 St. Thomas Street
Borough, London SE1 9RS
T: 020 7403 2070
http://www.youngs.co.uk/pub-detail.asp?PubID=367

British Film Institute on Southbank

The British Film Institue (BFI) (http://www.bfi.org.uk/) is located on the South Bank, near Waterloo station.  It is a destination for serious film lovers.  It houses one of the world's most in-depth film archives, and has world class learning resources.  We visited a learning room where people can watch old movies for free on private tvs (we watched the 1979 film "The Knowledge" starring Nigel Hawthorne, Mick Ford, and Kim Taylforth). But it's not all highbrow. The IMAX also is part of the BFI, and shows mainstream movies like "Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol" on London's biggest screen (located nearby to the main BFI facility).

The BFI is quite disabled friendly, but the lifts we used were the platform lifts rather than the typical built-in lifts, so we're not sure if the building was wheelchair accessible when originally built. It's probably best to enter through the front entrance rather than the rear, since the lift at the front did not require operator assistance. Still, all of the areas we looked at were wheelchair accessible, and the (helpful) staff informed us that the theatres also have wheelchair seating (we will confirm).  There is also an accessible lounge/bar area that looked quite nice for a pre-movie film drink or nibble (and the IMAX also has a cafe and bar). Sadly, the only thing missing was the smell of fresh popcorn.

South Bank itself is incredibly accessible, and is a destination spot for culture vultures, with the Tate Modern, Hayward Gallery, Royal Festival Hall, National Theatre, Old Vic and the BFI all located within easy walking (or wheeling) distance.

Details:

Transportation: Waterloo train station/tube station or buses 1, 4, 26, 68, 76, 77, 139, 168, 171, 172, 176, 188, 211, 243, 341, 507, 521, or RV1. Apparently there is also underground parking at the Hayward Gallery.

Wheelchair Travel UK

For those times when using public transportation or black cabs is not practical (e.g. when travelling in a large group, or if you have a lot of luggage, etc.) you may need to hire an accessible car service or rent a van or minibus. We used Wheelchair Travel UK to pick us up from Heathrow (it also rents vans for hire). It was expensive, but well worth it. Our driver met us at the arrivals in Terminal 5.  He took us directly to the van (a late model Renault) which was parked very close by -- less than a minute away.  The driver was a kind man who did his utmost to make us all as comfortable as possible. We had an enjoyable journey through London, and we arrived at our destination in South London on time and relaxed.


Details:
http://www.wheelchair-travel.co.uk
Tel: +44 (0)1483 233 640 or +44 (0)1483 237 668

Black Cabs

All of London's iconic black cabs are wheelchair accessible.  The newer cabs have built in ramps that easily pull out of the floor and extend onto the curb, and the older cabs have ramps in the boot (or trunk).  I imagine that all manual wheelchair users, and most power chair users, can fit in the cabs (we do, even with Chazz's large power chair).  There is not a ton of headroom for power chair users, but as long as you do not have a long journey this should not be too much of an issue.

London cab drivers know where they're going, and it's almost a point of honour that they do not have to ask passengers for directions.  This is due in part because they must pass an exam called "the Knowledge" for which it apparently takes between 2-4 years to prepare (cabbies are tested on 320 routes, and there are about 25,000 streets in central London).  

One cannot overstate what a benefit it is to be able to use any black cab, and how much peace of mind comes from knowing that you will never be stranded.  Why other cities don't adopt similar taxi systems is a mystery to me.  

Hay's Galleria

Hay's Galleria is a great spot for wheelchair users.  It's difficult to describe what Hay's Galleria is exactly.  The atrium reminds us of a large, old fashioned train station but it houses a mixture of of corporate offices, restaurants, shops, and a pub.  Evidently, the building was used as a wharf during the early 1900s, primarily in the tea trade.  The wharf was damaged during the Southwark Fire, and also was bombed during the Second World War.  Surprising, the primary focal point of Hay's, the impressive glass ceiling, was not built until the 1980s are part of an urban regeneration scheme.

Hay's Galleria (facing South)

It's a trick of the mind that a glass ceiling can make a space feel larger than the outdoors, but to us that's  the "wow" factor for this building.  No matter how many people are around, there always seems to be plenty of wheeling space and one never feels claustrophobic, whether due to the sheer height of the roof, the light streaming in from above or the constant fresh air from the north and sought open entrances.

There are a few good eating options here.  We always enjoyed Cafe Rouge pre-wheelchair days, but were a bit leery of going back since so many of this chain's interiors, though cozy, are very cramped.  The Cafe Rouge at Hay's, however, is very accessible since the "outdoor" seating is in the atrium itself with oodles of space. http://www.caferouge.co.uk/french-restaurant/hays-galleria

Cafe Rouge: Note the accessible 

"outdoor" seating

If you take the wide, side ramp up to the Thames Walk side of the Galleria, there is also a nice restaurant called "Cote."  I was disappointed to see a number of steps down into the dining area, but when I spoke with a manager I learned that there is an accessible back entrance.  The manager seemed genuinely interested in telling me about the accessible entrance, and even offered to personally show the entrance to me despite being in the midst of a busy Sunday lunch service.  I didn't take him up on the offer, but plan to go back for a trial lunch not least because I'd like to support a business that's so welcoming. Top marks for effort. http://www.cote-restaurants.co.uk/Cote_LondonBridge.html

Ramp to North entrance, & 

Horniman's at Hay's pub on right.

There is also a pub called "The Horniman at Hays" that I quite wrongly (and embarrassingly) thought was named for something entirely other than tea (Frederick Horniman, an English tea trader).  We haven't been in this pub yet since the very few accessible tables (on the upper level) are always taken.  It's a shame, since the glistening chandeliers and rich wood bar are enticing.  The outdoor seating always seems similarly packed, but one can hardly blame the punters since the panoramic view of the City, as well as the HMS Belfast (battleship) almost at your fingertips, are big draws.
http://www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk/thehornimanathayslondonbridge/

HMS Belfast (facing Tower Bridge)

You can easily wheel directly East to Tower Bridge on the very accessible Thames Walk which, during the summer, is also excellent for people watching.

Details:  

Address:  

Tel: 

Web:

Transportation: London Bridge tube station* and London Bridge overground.

*Please note that although London Bridge is designated as a wheelchair accessible station, in our experience some power chair users may not be able to use the tube (gap between platform and tube).

Hotels

As we live in London, we probably will not road-test any hotels here.  However, we recognize that this is a huge factor for anyone's travel plans to London, so we'd like to ask you to post your comments regarding your experiences with London hotels/hostels and their accessibility.  You'll be helping the disabled community make better choices about where to book their stay in this great city, and perhaps help change hotels' views with regard to providing accessible accommodation.

Tower Bridge Exhibition - Engine Rooms

Those Victorians. Who can rival their ingenuity and industriousness?  If you're interested in learning how Tower Bridge (the pretty one that most tourists wrongly call "London Bridge") was originally operated then a visit to the engine room chambers will provide you with more information about coal and hydraulics than you thought possible.

Most people come here after a visit to the Tower of London (other side of Bridge) or on their way to the Thames Walk from Shad Thames.  The entrance to the Exhibition is on the south side of the river, directly under the Bridge.  The entrance is completely accessible, and as you enter the Exhibition there is a disabled toilet directly to your right!

We wouldn't recommend that you go out of your way for this Exhibition, but it is certainly a pleasant way to spend a half hour or so if you have the time and you are nearby.  And at just over 3 pounds a ticket, this won't break the bank.  A good choice for young children and mechanically-minded adults (both groups were mesmerized by giant gears).

This venue is also available for hire for special events, and I think it would be a cool, accessible option for a party.

Details:

http://www.towerbridge.org.uk/TBE/EN/
+44 (0)20 7403 3761

Transportation: Tower Hill tube is the closest tube, but it is not accessible.  We believe that the buses that run on Tower Bridge Road are all accessible (e.g. 188, 45).  If you come via London Bridge,* you should be able to get to this pub easily via the accessible Thames Walk.

* Please note that although London Bridge is designated as a wheelchair accessible tube station, in our experience some wheelchair users may not be able to use the tube due to the gap between the platform and the tube.

Borough Market

Including Borough Market as a place of interest in a blog devoted to wheelchair accessibility is a tough call.  This market is not easily maneuverable for anyone other than young, lithe students.  But that doesn't stop the rest of us from flooding in every Thursday, Friday and Saturday to this foodie heaven.  Truly, this is the best market we've ever been to and the vibrant atmosphere is intoxicating.  There are stalls upon stalls of the freshest meats, cheeses, and vegetables, with countless other sweet and savory delights in every nook and cranny.  As soon as you turn a corner into the market you are rendered powerless to the vivid bursts of colors, the sumptuous smells and the cacophony of ever present voices.

That said, wheeling in this market requires preparation.  There are simply too many people around to make wheeling in a straight path possible, and people are too engrossed in finding a stall that sells just the perfect cut of lamb to notice that a wheelchair user trying to push through the heaving mass.  Indeed, I have seen many parents near tears as they try to push strollers with crying toddlers through the crowd while still trying to sample olives and figs.  It often ends in their slugging lots of mulled wine and having sneaky cigarettes.

With all that aside, you shouldn't miss this market.  If you can, try to go early on a Thursday, or on a Friday morning at the latest.  Saturday is a disaster, but that said we went today (to try to order our Thanksgiving turkey) and we survived.  In fact, we shared a truly magnificent duck sandwich in a quiet alley, and we found another wheelchair user doing the same.  So put on a game face and go for it!

P.S. With my expat hat on, I have a special note to the Americans.  If you're at all concerned with trying to fit in, please do not call this "Burr-O" Market.  It's pronounced more accurately like "Burr-Agh" Market.  And you may wish to reconsider telling everyone how we have better and bigger markets in the States.  We don't (and no, CostCo doesn't count).



Details:

http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/

Transportation: See the following link for complete transportation information:  http://www.boroughmarket.org.uk/page/3020/Visit-us.  However, please bear in mind that the closest tube station, London Bridge, while designated as a wheelchair accessible station may not be accessible to all wheelchair users due to the gap between the platform and tube.

St. Bride's - Fleet Street

Fleet Street is an amazing part of London -- bustling with lawyers, bankers, newspaper men and everyone in between.  On manic weekdays one is particularly grateful to find a  place of calm and tranquility nestled right in the heart of it all.  One quick turn off Fleet Street into St. Bride's and you can find a lovely courtyard (which The Old Bell also backs on to) to sit and eat your sandwich in quiet solitude.

It is particularly heartening to find a big wide ramp leading to the courtyard, as well as a sign asking visitors not to park their bikes along the ramp as this might block access to the disabled.  How thoughtful!  

I should include a brief history of St. Bride's, but with over 2000 years of history it is quite daunting to do so.  Some highlights include that it was rebuilt seven times. The last time it was rebuilt was after it was bombed in World War II.  The bomb led to the discovery of forgotten underground crypts which are quite a sight to behold.  As far as I can tell, the crypts are inaccessible, but the church is accessible via a side entrance that is very elegantly designed.  

Go for the service, the lunch hour concerts, a tour of the church (tours held on Tuesdays from 3 - 4.30 pm) or just to talk to the kind staff, who also sell used paperbacks for 50 p.  Oh, and don't forget to look up -- evidently the steeple is what the first tiered wedding cakes were modeled after.

Details:

St. Bride's Church

Fleet Street
London
EC4Y 8AU
+44 (0)20 7427 0133

Transportation:

Buses (all accessible): 4, 11, 15, 23, 76

Train: City Thameslink

Tube: St. Pauls, Central Line (not accessible) 

http://www.stbrides.com/